Insider's Guide to Puerto Vallarta Mexico (2024)

Viva Puerto Vallarta! My Insider’s Guide to One of the Happiest Places I Know. I have made Puerto Vallarta, my winter “home away from home” for the past 18 years, even during Covid.

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Why here? Let me count the ways. The weather is ideal. In all my years here, it has rained twice for a few hours. The average daily temperature is about 30 C or 80 F with a
breeze. Nights are cool and balmy. The restaurants and markets provide fabulous food options–from Mexican to Italian to Thai. The service is terrific.

The Banderas Bay region appeals to all types: it is senior friendly, LGBTQ+ friendly, single women friendly, couples friendly, family friendly… even dog friendly. It’s a
happy place. You don’t need a car because public transportation (buses, taxis and Ubers) is efficient and cheap. Free WIFI is available all over town.

Save and Splurge – Banderas Bay Puerto Vallarta Mexico

Explore where to save and splurge and how to make the most of your visit to the Bay of Banderas, one of the most beautiful bays in North America. You won’t likely find most of these off-the beaten-path discoveries in your average guidebook. Rest assured, this one of the safest, friendliest towns you’ll ever visit. (All prices approximated in Canadian dollars.)

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Cathedral in Puerto Vallarta. Photo: Anita Draycott©

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The “CHEAP THRILLS” Save List

Taco Crawl

When I read about Vallarta Food Tours, “An Evening Taco Adventure,” I signed up. Who would know better then the Vallarta food experts about where to enjoy good street food? Our progressive dinner included five kinds of tacos, pozole (a stew of hominy and shredded pork) a shot of Mexcal and a last stop of churros (Mexican doughnuts).

Tacos are arguably the best bargain in town, and stopping at the various stands is a great opportunity to munch and mingle with locals.

Java Jolts

My newest discovery in central Vallarta is Puerto Cafe, a funky little place that takes its beans very seriously. Dee’s Coffee Company, another favourite for a good java
jolt and daily fresh home baking, is on Calle Francisca Rodriguez with views of Puerto Vallarta’s stunning pier. Her sticky buns are outrageously good; one is plenty for two.

Just up the street from Dee’s, there’s a sweet senior gentleman who operates a juice stand and squeezes fresh oranges and grapefruits while you wait. Should you find
yourself in the Versailles area near Costco, Elforoteo (Los Tules 168) won’t disappoint.

Asian Tapas off the Gringo Path

Located in the Colonia Fluvial (near Costco), Bonito Kitchen is a hidden gem. Owner Francie, who was born in Vietnam and lived the U.S. before settling in PV, offers a wondrous list of small plates. Everything on the menu is flavourful.

On Saturdays, she includes pho (Vietnamese soup) on the menu. Her cucumber salad with toasted sesame seeds is not to be missed. Other favourites include
grilled zucchini with pesto, pork/shrimp pot stickers and slow-braised pork belly. You’ll want to pair these tapa-style dishes with creative cocktails garnished with edible flowers and herbs.

Francie recently opened a larger version of Bonito in the Romantic Zone (V. Carranza 512) with an expanded menu and beautifully landscaped patio. Try the martini with smoked blue cheese stuffed olives and lobster dumplings.

Saturday is Market Day

The Old Town Farmers’ Market takes place in the Lazaro Cardenas Square in the Romantic Zone on Saturday mornings. It’s full of vendors selling everything from fresh bread and baked goods to organic vegetables to crafts. Plan to have breakfast as you graze from stall to stall.

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Travel writer Anita Drayott and her husband, William Orr at the Puerto Vallarta Saturday market. ©

Meet me on the Malecon

You must stroll along Puerto Vallarta’s lovely seaside promenade, the Malecon. When the sun goes down, watch a folkloric spectacle in the Los Arcos, the open-air
amphitheatre. On Sunday nights, a live band often plays in the zocalo. Join the locals, young and senior, in a sexy salsa number.

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One of many statues on the Malecon. Photo: Anita Draycott©

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Puerto Vallarta sunset. Photo: Anita Draycott©

Bountiful Botanical Gardens

Hop on the bus that says El Tuito at the corner of Carranza and Aguacate. The scenic ride takes you south along the coast to the Vallarta Botanical Gardens.

Wear walking shoes so you can explore the various trails and collections of palms, roses, ferns, agaves, orchids, wildflowers, coffee and vanilla trees. A fascinating
variety of birds and butterflies call these gardens home too, so bring your camera and binoculars. Take a refreshing dip in the Rio Los Horcones (don’t forget to bring a towel), then head up to the Hacienda de Oro restaurant for an alfresco lunch. The gift shop is full of unique items, including vanilla beans grown on the property.

We visit these gardens every year and each time we discover something new. This year the formerly white chapel has been painted pink on the outside and the interior walls and ceilings are festooned with vivid murals featuring tropical birds and flowers.

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Chapel at Vallarta Botanical Gardens Puerto Vallarta Mexico. Photo: Anita Draycott©

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Young dancer at Vallarta Botanical Gardens. Photo: Anita Draycott©

Wednesday Night Art Walk

From the end of October to the end of May, you can participate in Art Walk every Wednesday evening. About 20 galleries and studios in the historic centre open from 6 to 10 p.m. Most serve snacks and drinks; often, they’ll have an artist or two on the premises. Caf(C) des Artistes, one of Vallarta’s top restaurants, offers early-bird dinner specials (three courses for about $40) in a lush garden setting.

Joe Jack’s Fish Shack

The atmosphere is funky and casual, but the cooking is superb. Joe Jack’s Fish Shack, located in the Romantic Zone on Basilio Badillo, is a fun spot for lunch or dinner. Shrimp and avocado tostadas slide down extremely well with a gazpacho Bloody Mary or Ginger Mojito. On Fridays, they serve all-you-can-eat beer battered fish and chips.

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Joe Jack’s Fish Shack in Puerto Vallarta. Photo: Anita Draycott©

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Insider's Guide to Puerto Vallarta Mexico (2024)
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